Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty
亚历山大·麦昆:野性之美


5._Installation_view_of_Romantic_Nationalism_gallery_Alexander_McQueen_Savage_Beauty_at_the_VA_c_Victoria_and_Albert_Museum_London

Savage Beauty will be presented in ten sections which will showcase the dominant themes and concepts within Alexander McQueen’s extraordinary body of work. The sections are built around garments which span the breadth of McQueen’s womenswear collections, from his MA graduate collection in 1992 to A/W 2010, McQueen’s final, unfinished collection.

The first section of the exhibition, London, will focus on McQueen’s London roots and his early development as a designer. Important designs from McQueen’s impactful first seven collections will be displayed alongside footage of catwalk shows including The Hunger (S/S 1996). McQueen’s skillful subversion of traditional tailoring practices will be the focus of Savage Mind. The interplay between dark and light will be explored in Romantic Gothic. Romantic Primitivism will explore McQueen’s fascination with the animal world, a subject which inspired him throughout his career. McQueen’s fascination with his Scottish heritage, ancestry and the colonial past will be explored within Romantic Nationalism. McQueen’s longstanding interest in Eastern cultures will be examined in Romantic Exoticism. Romantic Naturalism will represent McQueen’s lifelong passion for nature and the inspiration he drew from its beauty and fragility.

The Cabinet of Curiosities will form the heart of the exhibition and will be presented in a double- height gallery. It will showcase more than 100 garments and accessories, produced in collaboration with the milliner Philip Treacy and jewellers such as Shaun Leane and Sarah Harmarnee. A further section in the exhibition will be devoted to recreating the spectacular Pepper’s Ghost, which provided a memorable finale to The Widows of Culloden (A/W 2006-07)- The spectral form of Kate Moss will appear nearly life size.

McQueen’s last fully realised collection, Plato’s Atlantis (S/S 2010) will be the finale of the exhibition. Set within a futuristic narrative where the ice caps have melted and humanity has had to devolve in order to live under the sea, the dramatically original collection fused McQueen’s interest in nature and technology in what was widely considered his greatest achievement.

繼2011年盛況空前的紐約展覽之後,鬼才設計師亞歷山大·麥昆(Alexander McQueen)的回顧展於2015年春季回歸故土倫敦,命名為《野性之美》。此次展覽是麥昆整個創作生涯的重現,貫穿了女裝創作歷程的始末,從最初1992年中央聖馬丁藝術設計學院碩士畢業作品至2010年秋冬季未完成的遺作,所有最具代表性的主題和概念都將展示於公眾。

展覽總共劃分為十個主題展區。第一個展區“倫敦”回顧了麥昆自小的成長環境倫敦以及他早期最具爆發力的七組系列作品。當年的秀場影片也將一併呈現,其中包括了1996年的春夏系列《飢餓(The Hunger)》。麥昆驚世的才華絕不止於此,在隨後的展區中展現了他在各大領域的嘗試,堪稱淋漓盡致。例如“野性思維”是麥昆對傳統剪裁技法的顛覆性突破;“浪漫哥特(Romantic Gothic)”探索了黑暗與光明的相互交錯;“浪漫原始主義(Romantic Primitivism)”和“浪漫自然主義(Romantic Naturalism)”分別展示了麥昆對動物世界的迷戀,以及對自然的鍾愛,從大自然的美麗和脆弱中獲得靈感;在“浪漫民族主義(Romantic Nationalism)”中有麥昆對於具備蘇格蘭傳統,血統和殖民歷史的驕傲;在“浪漫異國風情(Romantic Exoticism)”中也講述了他對於東方文化濃厚的興趣。

在一個巨型空間“珍奇陳列室”內陳列著100多套服裝及配飾,其中有麥昆與著名帽飾設計師菲利普·崔西(Philip Treacy)和首飾設計師如肖恩·利尼(Shaun Leane)和薩拉·哈莫尼(Sarah Harmarnee)等人的聯袂創作。而另一個特定展區則還原了奇特的“佩珀爾幻象(Pepper’s Ghost)”,這是2006/2007年秋冬季《卡洛登的寡婦(The Widows of Culloden)》的壓軸秀,接近真人形體的凱特·莫斯(Kate Moss)將以全息投影形式呈現。

2010年春夏系列《柏拉圖的亞特蘭蒂斯王國(Plato’s Atlantis)》是本次展覽的最大亮點,這是麥昆生前完成的最終系列。故事設定在一個未來世界,因為冰原融化人類不得不遷移到海底生活,大膽而誇張的原創設計融合了麥昆在自然和工藝上的獨特品味,所以該系列也被譽為他最偉大的創作。


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展覽場地:V&A MUSEUM 维多利亚及阿尔伯特博物馆
展覽時間:14.03.2015 – 02.08.2015
更多信息:www.vam.ac.uk