Story of the Jewelry
首飾的故事


By Elaine Yu

 

IIn the heart of Kensington Church Street in London, among various antique and fashion boutiques, stands a jewellery shop. As soon as you enter the ‘home’ of Didier, you will be astonished by the wonderful and splendid designs. Are these art? Jewellery? Sculpture?

在西倫敦的肯辛頓教堂街(Kensington Church Street)上眾多的古董精品與摩登時裝店中間,悄然地陳列著一家首飾店。推門進入Didier 的“家”,馬上會被風格各異、充滿靈氣的陳列品所吸引,這些是藝術品?是首飾?是雕塑?

You can almost see a showcase of a brief history of art here from Picasso, Fontana, Dali, Calder, Leger, Giacometti, to Lichtenstein, Haring and Warhol a symphony of pre and post war modern and contemporary art is played in this visual space.

在這裡似乎可以看到上個世紀藝術史的縮影,多位馳騁在藝術界并影響了當代藝術發展的藝術家與工匠們的靈魂相聚於此。從畢加索、丰塔纳(Fontana)、達利(Dali)、卡爾德(Calder)、莱热(Leger)、贾科梅蒂(Giacometti)、到林奇肯斯坦(Lichtenstein)、赫寧(Haring)、沃霍爾( Warhol)。這些大師的設計混雜在一起,奏出一曲貫穿戰前與戰後藝術史詩的交響樂。

“Every piece of jewellery has their own unique and personal story,” says Didier, “Some are made for their dearest and beloved ones, some are designed for a good friend, neighbour, or a special client, some a prototype of their bigger art work, which then became a piece of jewellery.”

“這裡每一件首飾都有他們獨特的故事,” Didier 說,“有的是給他們至親至愛的人所設計,有的是為一個要好的朋友、鄰居或者客戶定做,有的本來是他們大型作品的微縮模型,後來被製作成了首飾.”

“My job is to find these neglected wearable pieces of artwork, study them, research them and publish them for those who love art. Sometimes they appear in  jewellery auctions, sometimes the owner passed away and the art work comes to the market from the jewellery box.”

“我的工作是找尋這些被遺忘的可以戴在身上的藝術品,對他們進行研習,然後讓世人了解到它們的存在。有時候他們出現在珠寶拍賣上,有的時候,某位珠寶的繼承者過世,於是這些藝術品被從首飾盒裡帶到了市場上。”

Most painters designed these jewellery pieces and had them made, or collaborated with friends, while most sculptors made these themselves as they already possessed the technique of molding and soldering. Some had inspirations and breakthroughs on their other art work while creating these small pieces.

大部份的畫家需要和工匠們一起來完成這些首飾,但是對於雕塑家,他們已經具備了各種製作金屬物件的技能,所以大部份雕塑家會自己來製作首飾,他們可以通過製造這些小物件兒來激發靈感和嘗試新的突破。

Calder began making jewellery for his sister’s dolls at age 6 and, for the rest of his life, carried pliers and bits of wire in his pockets. As he once put it: “I think best in wire.” One of the most valuable artwork that Didier has is a unique and symbolic spiral brooch of Calder.

卡爾德(Calder)從6歲起就開始為他姐姐的布娃娃做螺旋形的項鏈,他後來的一生當中,也總是在口袋裡揣著金屬絲。如他所說,“我最喜歡用金屬絲來思考。”Didier 的收藏品中最昂貴的藝術品之一便是一件獨一無二的卡爾德(Calder)螺旋形胸針。

Picasso loved experiencing all forms of median. He started making terra-cotta in his holiday home and made small as well as large pieces. He has devoted some of these to his lovers and some to relatives and friends. One day, Picasso saw his dentist Dr. Chatagnier making a golden crown for teeth, he asked him, “Could you teach me how to make this?” He then started his collaboration with Dr. Chatagnier. From the golden pieces we can visualize the lines and forms of characters in Picasso’s other art works. In addition to his signature many of these pieces also have Picasso’s finger prints embedded.

而畢加索則喜歡嘗試各種不同的材質和媒介,他在度假時的鄉村小屋裡制造陶瓷制品,並同時制作他們的迷你版本,做成項鏈吊墜等,送給他摯愛的女人。某一日,畢加索看到牙醫制作的金屬牙套,突發奇想,便對他的好友及牙醫Chatagnier醫生說,能否教我如何制作金屬的模子,於是他們開始了多年的合作。從這些金屬制品可以看出畢加索人物造型中的線條和棱角。許多首飾上除了留下他的簽名外,還有他的指紋。

 

Dali’s pieces are rather symbolic, as if they are waken from various surrealist dreams of the artist. While the color and texture of the gem stone and metals seem to be re-illustrating Dali’s work in a unique 4D form. The 18k gold earrings made of rubies, emeralds and diamonds told a historic incident: British Prime Minister Chamberlain tried to call Hitler to avoid the war.  He was not successful and the 2nd World War started. The telephone was a symbol of the failed conversation between Chamberlain and Hitler. This beautiful bright colored lip shaped brooch was inspired by the smile of Marilyn Monroe. Dali was in love with her ruby lips and pearl-like teeth and created this timeless piece.

達利(Dali)的作品尤為突出,他們似乎來源於藝術家不同的超現實主義夢境,而寶石與金屬間鮮明的色澤與質感,又似乎以新的四維形式體現了他的創作。這一副18k金,由紅綠寶石與碎鉆環繞而成的耳環,訴說了這麽一個歷史事件:英國首相張伯倫(Chamberlain)給希特勒打電話嘗試調停戰爭,但是他的努力最終以失敗告終,二戰開始了。這個電話象征著張伯倫與希特勒間失敗的通話。而這張鮮紅的嘴唇胸針的靈感來源與瑪麗蓮夢露的微笑,達利為影星如珍珠般的皓齒與紅寶石般的紅唇著迷,於是制作了這件不朽的作品。

Apart from household named artists Didier also has a good collection of many other talented artists and craftsmen. A paper box sitting on a small round table got my attention.  Didier opened the patterned box for me and told me the story – it was a limited edition for the LV flagship store in Paris.  Inside the box there is an art deco style silicon pendant designed by Armen, a futuristic brooch made of golden tissues by Cesar and a black box that you could wear around your neck by Ben Vautier. Didier opened the box for the first time.  A small pebble was wrapped carefully with a tiny scroll which reads in French “After Marcel Duchamp’s drawing of the sea, every pebble on the beach is a diamond.”

除去家喻戶曉的藝術家們, Didier 還收藏了許多天才藝術家的作品。在別致的仿古小圓桌上,一個小盒子吸引了我的眼球,Didier十分友好地為我打開了這個印有LV圖標的硬紙盒,並講述其中的故事–這是LV巴黎旗艦店開張時藝術家們為其作出的限量版設計,裡面有一個長方形矽膠Art Deco吊墜,一個長方形未來主義風格( Futurism)的胸針。以及一個拴有黑繩子的,可以做項鏈的盒子。Didier 第一次打開這個盒子的時候,裡面有一張小紙條橫幅,小心地包裹著一個石子。上面寫著法語‘自從杜尚畫過海以後,沙灘上的每一顆鵝卵石都是一粒鉆石。’

Most of  the pieces in the collection are from deceased artists.  The only living artist in Didier’s shop is Iranian Adnan Charara.  The name of this ring is ‘ I love you from the bottom of my heart.’

Didier店中藏品的設計者大多已經故去了,唯一一個還在世的藝術家就是來自伊朗的Charara。這位藝術家設計的這個戒指的名字,叫“我從內心深處愛著你”。