WHEN FASHION DESIGN BECOMES FLESH AND BLOOD
當女裝變成血肉之軀


 

All fashion designers treat their designs as their own children, come out of their own blood and integrate with their spirits. However, for Bai Jie, a young fashion designer, her designs are more than injection of her own emotion and spirit, but every piece of her work is flesh and blood with its own structure.

對於每位時裝設計師來說,他們的設計如同自己的孩子,出於自己,融入 自己。而對於白潔這位年輕的時尚計師來說,她的設計不單是自己情感與精神的注入,而且她的每一件作品都是有骨,有肉,有血,有皮的“血肉之 驅”。

Before Bai came to Centre Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London, her design has already been mature with strong personal style. After she came to London, her design came to a new level. She graduated from women’s wear design in Centre Saint Martins College. For her, studying in the UK is more than opening her mind and having educational courses, but more importantly, it is an experience to witness various art events and all atmosphere of fashion. Being educated and living in London for three years, her design works grow into an outstanding success.

Bai always conducts numerous researches before designing every piece
of garment. It is not only the design and inspiration from other successful designers Bai would research on, but also how their inspiration becomes a design. For Bai, art particularly plays an important role in finding inspiration. Meanwhile, it is installation, a form of art, that she made every piece of her design. Every design is an individual piece of art. Fashion design to her is no longer simply garment design, but a three dimensional installation. She gives every piece of garment life and soul, which no longer a garment attached to a model, but a life formed with fresh flesh.

在到倫敦中央聖馬丁藝術學院(Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design)學習之前,白潔的設計作品已經非常成熟,具有強烈的個人風格。到了倫敦之後,她的設計更是達到了新的高度。對於畢業於中央聖馬丁藝術學院的女裝設計的白潔來說,選擇來英國留學不單是打開眼界,接受教育,更重要的是她可以親歷各種藝術現場, 力行各式時尚氛圍。在經過了三年的洗禮之後,她的作品一鳴驚人。

白潔在設計每一套服裝之前都會作大量的研究,不單是研究先前設計師們的設計、靈感來源,更多是學習前人是如何從自己的靈感發展成為自己的設計。正是如此,她所尋找靈感的地方,是藝術;同樣,她也將自己的設計,當作立體的裝置藝術作品來完成。對她來說,每一件設計都是單獨存在的藝術個體,服裝設計不再是單純的設計,更多的,是一件件三維立體的裝置。她賦予了每一件作品生命、靈魂,它們不再是附著在模特身體上的衣物,而是一 件件具有鮮活血肉的生命體。

Surrealism has a potent influence on Bai and her designs.
Her inspiration is from Hieronymus Bosch, whom has been considered as the first Surrealist artist. Instead by using
his painting directly in her design, she projects his bizarre, mysterious style into her design. Meanwhile, she uses three important concepts of Surrealism as a reference: based on reality but beyond reality, unconsciousness and unbiased actions. Thus, in her designs, what can be seen is art works rather than design works, irregular outlines but full of tension and extraordinary combinations and structures. She uses sculptural techniques to complete every garment. In every piece of works, different views are brought up with strong contrast and distinctive rhythm from various angles.

超現實主義對於她的設計影響巨大。她的靈感來源是被称為“超現實主義第一人”的藝術大師希羅尼慕斯·博斯(Hieronymus Bosch)的藝術風格。 白潔並沒有直接運用博斯作品的片斷在自己的設計當中,而是將博斯作品中那種怪誕、神祕的氣氛,貫徹到她設計的每一方寸。同時,她借鑑了 超現實主義的三個重要理念:基於現實而超越現實、無意識狀態以及無偏見行為。所以,在她的設計中,我們看到的是服裝卻更是藝術作品,是 不規則但張力十足的輪廓,非同尋常的排列組合及形體構成。對於每件作品,她所採用的是雕塑的手法,每件作品,從不同角度都會呈現出不同 的效果,對比鮮明而又節奏感強烈。

Bai also deliberates over the choice of materials after experiments. Inspired by medieval art works, she chooses silk and velvet to represent grace and mystery. Moreover, hand-sewn pleats make
a strong contrast between the reflection and shadow of velvet, which creates a mystery and impressed all the audience.

Her design is composed of three parts, as she said, ‘every piece is just like human with its own bones, flesh and skin. I hope my work is not simply functional clothes worn on human body with beauty, but they are also art works when presented separately. They have their own souls’. Bai Jie, this excellent fashion designer gives these works life and soul. It is her thoughts and her talent, as blood runs through from head to toes that made her design works with flesh and blood.

Now she returned to Beijing and set up her own studio in Postmodern City to continue her design and dreams.

在材料的選擇上,白潔也是經過深思熟慮的。受到中世紀繪畫作品的啓發,真絲絲絨質地高貴而又具有神祕氣質,這與她整套作品的初衷相得益 彰。全手工縫製的褶皺處理,使得絲絨的反光與陰影形成強烈的對比,這種神秘感更加打動觀眾。

每件作品的內部,都由三部份組成,用她自己的話來說,“都像人類一樣有骨、有肉、有皮,因為我希望作品不僅是構架於人的身體呈現出的美感 與功能性,而且在它單獨呈現時也是一件藝術作品,也是具有靈魂的”。而讓這些作品變得有生命、有靈魂的,正是這位出色的設計師,是她的思想,她的才情,像整個作品的血液一樣,貫穿頭尾,讓她的作品真正成為了血肉之驅。

如今,她又回到了北京,在後現代城成立了自己 的工作室,繼續着她的創作與夢想。