This spring, in Geneva, Phillips will unveil a glittering homage to design history and timeless craftsmanship. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV, taking place on 12 May 2025 at the Hotel President Wilson, offers collectors and connoisseurs an extraordinary opportunity to acquire rare and historically significant jewels—each a reflection of the artistry and cultural resonance that have defined fine jewellery across generations.
At the heart of the sale is a curated selection of Art Deco masterpieces, assembled to mark the 100th anniversary of the 1925 Paris Exposition des Arts Décoratifs—an event that ushered in a new aesthetic era of geometry, glamour, and modernity. Among the standout pieces is a Cartier brooch circa 1910, crafted by the legendary Atelier Henri Picq, whose refined settings and bold architectural lines helped shape the visual language of the Art Deco movement. Also featured is a rare 1920s crystal and diamond brooch by Janesich, and a pair of diamond earrings by Chaumet, created in 1934 as part of a noble bride’s corbeille de mariage and passed down within the same French family for generations.
This thoughtful celebration of design heritage sets the stage for the auction’s leading lot: a 53.14-carat Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond and diamond pendant—a stone of exceptional colour and brilliance, elevated by refined craftsmanship. Complementing it is a pair of D Colour, flawless diamond earrings, weighing 10.92 and 10.58 carats respectively–each a tribute to purity, precision and symmetry. Rounding out the top lots is a 1.85-carat Fancy Vivid Orangy Pink diamond ring, offering yet another rare expression of natural colour.
Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond and diamond pendant, weighing 53.14 carats. Courtesy of Phillips.
Beyond diamonds, the sale explores the rich spectrum of coloured gemstones, featuring highlights such as a 7.10-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring by Van Cleef & Arpels, distinguished by its velvety texture and rarity. Also on offer are two exceptional Burmese rubies: a 7.37-carat ring by Bulgari, and a 10.59-carat unmounted stone of luminous crimson hue, each representing the finest expressions of their origin.
Other highlights include a striking 122.77-carat unmounted Paraiba tourmaline from Mozambique, notable for its vivid colour and impressive scale; a Burmese ruby and diamond necklace, accompanied by no-heat certification; a 13.24-carat Burmese sapphire and diamond ring by Graff, combining size with refined elegance; and a 20.11-carat Ceylon sapphire and diamond ring that exemplifies the region’s hallmark clarity and hue.
Completing the collection is an iconic ‘Serpenti’ wristwatch by Bulgari, dating to the late 1950s. Set with rubies, a light pink diamond, and white diamonds, this coiled symbol of eternal beauty represents the brand’s signature fusion of sensuality and craftsmanship. Previously exhibited during Bulgari’s 75th-anniversary celebrations in Seoul and Milan in 2023, the piece carries both design legacy and cultural resonance.
Ahead of the Geneva sale, selected highlights will tour internationally, with stops in Hong Kong, New York, Singapore, and London, before returning to Geneva. The full collection will be on public view at the Hotel President Wilson from 7–12 May, coinciding with the GemGenève fair.
We had the privilege of speaking with Mei Giam, Phillips’ Senior International Specialist of Jewellery, who shared further insight into the curatorial vision, market trends, and stories behind this season’s sale.
Van Cleef & Arpels, Gold and diamond minaudiere. Courtesy of Phillips.
In Conversation with Mei Giam, Senior International Specialist of Jewellery
AZ: This year’s auction coincides with the centenary of the 1925 Paris Exposition des Arts Décoratifs. In your view, what makes Art Deco jewellery particularly compelling and culturally significant for today’s collectors?
MG: Art Deco jewellery continues to captivate collectors because it represents a perfect blend of bold design, cultural diversity, and social change. Born from the optimism of the 1920s, these pieces reflect a modern spirit that still feels fresh today—with their clean lines, global influences, and a craftsmanship rarely matched in contemporary design. They’re not just beautiful objects; they’re symbols of a pivotal moment in history that continues to resonate a century later.
AZ: Art Deco design plays a central role in this sale. Could you introduce some of the most representative pieces and highlight what makes their craftsmanship or design so distinctive? In particular, how do the featured Cartier brooch and Janesich piece embody the essence of the Art Deco aesthetic?
MG: Lot 324 – With the onset of Art Deco, craftsmen rose to the fore, and perhaps none is more lauded than Henri Picq who produced some of the most exquisite platinum jewellery pieces of the time. His work bears many hallmarks of Art Deco design, including delicate millegrain detailing and masterful use of negative space. His atelier, which was closely linked to Cartier, created ornate diamond-set pieces that defined the maison’s aesthetic during their successful collaboration.
AZ: Many of the lots are by storied maisons such as Cartier, Chaumet, and Janesich. Based on your experience, which brands or designers are currently most sought after among collectors—and what trends are driving this preference?
MG: Collectors today are especially drawn to storied maisons like Cartier, Chaumet, and Janesich because of their legacy of innovation and timeless design. Among the most sought-after names are Cartier for its groundbreaking Art Deco creations, Chaumet for its technical ingenuity and poetic style. Today’s collectors are looking not just for beauty, but for narrative—pieces that combine provenance, exceptional craftsmanship, and a distinct artistic point of view.
AZ: The 53.14-carat Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond is undoubtedly one of the headline pieces of the sale. Could you share more about the provenance of this gemstone and what makes it so exceptional?
MG: The size. The diamond is an old mine brilliant-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond of an astonishing 53.14 carats. The stone seems to possess a magical allure, so captivating in its impressive size and old-world charm that the room may momentarily disappear around you, the pendant seemingly suspended in mid-air. Bringing with it yellow’s associations with vitality, wisdom, creativity, and joy (and also a GIA report stating the stone is natural colour, internally flawless, with excellent polish), the effervescent pendant is certifiably a trophy in any case — or on any wearer.
AZ: From Kashmir sapphires to Paraiba tourmalines, the auction presents a rich variety of rare coloured gemstones. What recent trends or shifts have you observed in collectors’ appetite for colour? And how do you think the current international demand for Fancy Colour Diamonds?
MG: We are seeing a significant and sustained shift in collector appetite toward rare and vibrant coloured gemstones. From Kashmir sapphires and Colombian emeralds to Mozambique rubies and Paraiba tourmalines, connoisseurs are increasingly drawn to stones with exceptional saturation, origin, and rarity. There’s a growing appreciation for individuality—colour offers emotional resonance and uniqueness that’s often missing in more traditional white diamonds. At the same time, the international demand for Fancy Colour Diamonds, particularly pinks and vivid yellows, remains extremely strong. The recent spotlight on Argyle pink diamonds, following the mine’s closure, has only intensified interest. In both markets, the key drivers are scarcity, provenance, and the desire for something truly distinctive.
AZ: Phillips is known for curating high-quality jewels with strong historical provenance. How do you balance design aesthetics, historical significance, and market potential when selecting pieces for auction?
MG: At Phillips, we aim to present jewels that speak to both connoisseurs and contemporary collectors. When selecting pieces, we look for a balance of exceptional design, historical resonance, and market relevance. A jewel may stand out for its craftsmanship or aesthetics, but provenance adds a deeper narrative—whether it belonged to a notable figure or represents a pivotal design movement. Ultimately, we curate with a long view: pieces that are not only beautiful, but also culturally significant and investment-worthy.
AZ: This auction features many jewels from private collections, including heirloom pieces passed down through generations—such as the Chaumet earrings created for a French noble bride. How important is provenance and historical narrative in today’s market? Will the pieces with a story tend to attract more interest?
MG: Provenance and historical narrative are more important than ever in today’s market. In a world saturated with beautiful objects, it’s the story behind a piece that sets it apart. Whether a jewel was owned by a notable figure, linked to a specific cultural moment, or created by a legendary maison, that context adds depth, desirability, and often value. Collectors increasingly want to feel connected to what they acquire—not just aesthetically, but emotionally and historically. A piece with a compelling story doesn’t just draw more interest—it often inspires more competitive bidding.
AZ: You’ve worked closely with top collectors around the world. From your perspective, how has the perception of jewellery evolved—from wearable luxury to collectible objects of cultural and artistic value?
MG: Over the past decade, there has been a clear evolution in how collectors perceive jewellery. It’s no longer seen purely as wearable luxury—it’s increasingly valued as a form of cultural expression and artistic heritage. Top collectors today approach jewels the way they might fine art or design: with an eye for historical context, craftsmanship, and rarity. Pieces by iconic maisons or visionary designers are appreciated not just for their beauty, but for what they represent—a moment in history, a movement in design, or a breakthrough in technique. Jewellery has become a tangible link between art, identity, and legacy.
AZ: This year’s preview tour spans cities across Asia, Europe, and North America. Have you noticed distinct differences in taste, collecting focus, or values among collectors in different regions?
MG: Yes, regional differences in taste and collecting focus are quite distinct, and increasingly nuanced. In Asia, there’s a strong appreciation for exceptional coloured gemstones—particularly rubies, sapphires, and jadeite—with an emphasis on quality, rarity, and prestige. European collectors often gravitate toward pieces with historical provenance and artisanal craftsmanship, especially from iconic maisons. In North America, there’s growing interest in bold design and signed pieces from the 20th century, including Mid-Century and contemporary masters. Across all regions, however, we’re seeing a shared appetite for jewels that combine aesthetic excellence with a compelling narrative—something truly singular and enduring.
AZ: Looking ahead, how do you see younger generations—such as Millennials and Gen Z—engaging with jewellery auctions? What has changed in their collecting priorities? And for those who are new to jewellery collecting, what advice would you offer when selecting a piece?
MG: Millennials and Gen Z are engaging with jewellery in refreshingly thoughtful and personal ways. They are less focused on traditional status symbols and more interested in pieces that reflect individuality, sustainability, and cultural relevance. Many are drawn to vintage or signed jewels with a story—whether it’s a 1950s Bulgari Serpenti Lot 344 or the diamond earrings from Chaumet Lot 332—because they value authenticity and emotional resonance over size or brand alone. They are also digital natives, so access to knowledge, transparency, and online auctions has accelerated their confidence as buyers. For new collectors, my advice is simple: start with what speaks to you. Look for pieces that spark curiosity—whether through design, provenance, or craftsmanship—and always prioritise quality over trend. A well-chosen jewel is not just an accessory; it’s a lasting expression of your taste, values, and story.
富藝斯將於2025年5月12日在日內瓦總統威爾遜酒店舉行《日內瓦珠寶拍賣：第四場（Geneva Jewels Auction: IV）》。本次拍賣匯集了一系列兼具歷史意義與設計美學的珍稀珠寶，體現了珠寶藝術在不同時代的轉化與傳承。
此次拍賣的一大亮點是向裝飾藝術（Art Deco）風格致敬的精選作品。適逢1925年巴黎裝飾藝術博覽會一百週年，此風格所主張的幾何造型、對稱設計與現代感美學至今仍影響深遠。
焦點拍品之一是Cartier與傳奇工坊Atelier Heri Picq於1910年製作的胸針，其設計語彙已顯現裝飾藝術風格的早期特徵，展現了過渡時期的美學特質。其他相關作品還包括1920年代Janesich打造的白水晶鑲鑽胸針，以及於1934年Chaumet製作的一對鑽石耳環，該耳環原屬法國貴族新娘的婚嫁珠寶（corbeille de mariage），並由家族代代相傳珍藏至今。
彩鑽部分則以一件重達53.14克拉的艷彩黃鑽（Fancy Vivid Yellow）吊墜為焦點，其色澤濃郁、光彩奪目，兼具體量與工藝品質；一對分別重10.92克拉與10.58克拉、完美無瑕的D色鑽石耳環以純淨度與切工精度見長，亦為藏家注目之作；此外還有一枚1.85克拉的艷橙粉鑽戒指，色彩飽和且分佈均勻，展現罕見的自然色調。
在彩色寶石部分，Van Cleef & Arpels打造的一枚7.10克拉喀什米爾藍寶石鑽戒以絲絨般的質地與鮮明色澤廣受矚目；來自緬甸的兩枚頂級紅寶石同樣令人驚艷，分別為Bulgari出品的7.37克拉紅寶石戒指，以及一顆10.59克拉的無鑲紅寶石，其呈現的經典緋紅色調具備極高的收藏價值。
帕拉伊巴碧璽亦有代表之作：一顆重122.77克拉的碧璽裸石來自莫桑比克，色彩清澈鮮明，極具視覺張力。其他重要拍品還包括一條無燒緬甸紅寶石鑽石項鍊；Graff打造的13.24克拉緬甸藍寶石鑽石戒指；以及一枚20.11克拉的斯里蘭卡藍寶石鑽石戒指。這些展品均展現了各主要寶石產區的代表性特色與精選品質。
此外，1950年代末由Bulgari製作的標誌性蛇形腕錶「Serpenti」也將亮相。此腕錶以紅寶石、粉鑽與白鑽點綴，蛇形結構蜿蜒纏繞，象徵永恆與蛻變，曾於2023年在首爾與米蘭舉辦的Bulgari 75週年慶典展覽中展出，為本場拍賣增添設計史上的獨特篇章。
Bulgari, Ruby, Light Pink diamond and diamond wristwatch. Lot 344. Courtesy of Phillips.
在拍賣正式舉行前，部分精選拍品將於香港、紐約、新加坡與倫敦進行巡展，最後返回日內瓦。全部拍品將於5月7日至12日在總統威爾遜酒店公開展示，並與珠寶專業展會GemGenève同期舉行，吸引國際藏家與業界人士共聚一堂。
我們很榮幸地採訪到負責這次珠寶拍賣的富藝斯國際部資深珠寶專家Mei Giam，進一步分享了本場拍賣的策展理念、市場觀察與背後的故事。
Mei Giam, Senior International Specialist of Jewellery from Phillips
專訪富藝斯資深珠寶專家Mei Giam
AZ: 這場拍賣以1925年巴黎裝飾藝術博覽會百年為契機，您認為 Art Deco 珠寶對當代收藏市場而言有何吸引力與文化意義？
MG:裝飾藝術風格的珠寶一直深受藏家青睞，因為它完美融合了大膽的設計、多元的文化與時代的轉變。這些作品誕生於1920年代充滿希望的樂觀氛圍之中，至今仍展現出一種仍讓人耳目一新的現代感——俐落的線條、國際化的視野，以及在當代設計中愈發罕見的手工工藝。它們不僅是華美的飾物，更是歷史轉折時刻的象徵與具象記憶，至今依然餘韻綿長。
AZ:裝飾藝術風格在本場拍賣中佔有關鍵地位。您能為我們介紹幾件最具代表性的作品，以及它們在工藝或設計上的獨特之處嗎？本次亮相的 Cartier 胸針與 Janesich作品代表了Art Deco的哪些設計精髓？
MG:拍品編號324是一個非常典型的例子。隨著裝飾藝術風潮的興起，珠寶工匠們開始成為設計舞台的核心，其中最受推崇的莫過於Henri Picq。他創作了許多當時最爲精緻的鉑金珠寶，作品特徵鮮明，包括細緻的珠邊雕刻（millegrain）以及對負空間的巧妙運用。他的工作坊與Cartier緊密合作，打造出一系列裝飾華麗、鑲滿鑽石的作品，並奠定了品牌在黃金時期的設計語彙。
AZ: 本場拍賣中許多拍品出自 Cartier、Chaumet、Janesich 等歷史悠久的品牌。就您觀察，目前哪些品牌或設計師最受藏家青睞？這背後反映了哪些特定的市場趨勢嗎？
MG:如今的藏家格外青睞擁有悠久歷史與設計傳承的珠寶品牌，如Cartier、Chaumet與Janesich。Cartier的裝飾藝術風格開創先河，廣受追捧；Chaumet則以技術創新與詩意設計而受人喜愛。當代藏家追求的不只是美感，更多是背後的故事——他們重視的是來源背景、卓越工藝，以及獨特的藝術視角。
AZ:那顆53.14克拉的艷彩黃鑽吊墜無疑是本場拍賣的焦點之一，您能分享這顆寶石的來源背景與其魅力所在嗎？
MG:這顆鑽石的尺寸本身就令人驚嘆——它是一顆舊礦式切割的艷彩黃鑽，重達53.14克拉。它擁有近乎魔法般的魅力，宏偉的體量與古典的韻味結合，彷彿讓時間與空間凝止，吊墜彷彿懸浮於空氣之中。黃色象徵著活力、智慧、創造力與喜悅。根據GIA報告，這顆鑽石為天然色、內部無瑕、拋光極佳。不論是收藏還是佩戴，它都是無庸置疑的冠軍級珍品。
AZ:從克什米爾藍寶到帕拉伊巴碧璽，本次拍賣呈現豐富且罕見的彩色寶石。近年藏家對「色彩」的偏好有出現哪些新的趨勢或轉變？您又是如何看待當前國際市場對艷彩鑽石的需求？
MG:我們看到藏家對稀有且鮮豔的彩色寶石的熱情不斷增長。從喀什米爾藍寶、哥倫比亞祖母綠，莫桑比克紅寶，還是帕拉伊巴碧璽，行家越來越追求色彩飽和度高、產地獨特且數量稀少的寶石。色彩能傳遞情感與個性，這正是傳統白鑽難所取代的特質。艷彩鑽石的市場需求依然強勁，尤其是粉鑽與艷彩黃鑽。隨著阿蓋爾（Argyle）鑽石礦場的關閉，市場對粉鑽的關注進一步上升。這兩類寶石市場的核心驅動力都是對稀缺性、來源背景以及獨特性的追求。
AZ:富藝斯一向以拍賣高品質且兼具歷史意義的珠寶著稱。您如何在挑選拍品時平衡設計美學、歷史價值與市場潛力？
MG:在富藝斯，我們致力於呈現能引起行家與新一代藏家共鳴的珠寶作品。我們在策展時會著重考量設計的卓越性、歷史深度與當代市場的關聯。有些作品因工藝精湛或視覺美感脫穎而出，但擁有來源背景的珠寶則賦予了更豐富的敘事層次——無論是曾屬於名人、或代表某段設計潮流。我們始終以長遠目光策劃拍賣，挑選的不只是美麗的物件，更是具文化意義與投資潛力的傳世珍品。
AZ: 本次拍賣中有不少珠寶來自私人收藏，甚至代代相傳，如Chaumet為法國貴族新娘打造的婚嫁耳環。您如何看待「來源故事」與「歷史傳承」在當代市場中的影響力？這類「有故事的珠寶」在市場上是否更具吸引力？
MG: 在當今市場中，來源與歷史敘事比以往更加重要。在一個充滿美麗物件的世界裡，真正讓一件作品脫穎而出的往往是它背後的故事。無論是曾屬於名人、與特定文化時刻相關，或由傳奇品牌創作，這些背景都為作品賦予更深層的吸引力與價值。藏家越來越希望與他們收藏的珠寶建立情感與歷史的連結。擁有動人故事的珠寶不僅更引人注目，往往也能激發更激烈的競拍熱情。
AZ: 您長期與全球頂級藏家密切互動。就您的觀察，「珠寶」如何從奢華配飾逐漸轉化為承載文化與藝術價值的收藏品？
MG: 在過去十年間，藏家對珠寶的觀念發生了顯著的轉變。珠寶不再僅是可穿戴的奢侈品，而愈來愈被視為文化表達與藝術傳承的載體。如今的頂尖藏家以欣賞藝術或設計的角度看待珠寶–他們關注作品的歷史背景、工藝水準與稀有性。來自標誌性品牌或具遠見設計師的作品，不僅因其美麗而備受青睞，更因其象徵了一段歷史、一個設計流派或技術的突破。珠寶已成為藝術、身份與傳承之間的重要連結。
AZ: 富藝斯這次的巡展遍及亞洲與歐美城市，您覺得不同地區的藏家在美學品味、收藏重點或價值觀上有沒有明顯的差異？
MG: 絕對的，各地藏家在品味與收藏重點上的確有明顯且日益細緻的差異。在亞洲，對高品質彩色寶石——尤其是紅寶、藍寶與翡翠——的鑑賞力特別強，強調的是品質、稀有性與尊貴感。歐洲藏家則常傾向於有歷史背景與精緻工藝的作品，特別是來自標誌性品牌的珠寶。而北美市場近年對20世紀的大膽設計與簽名珠寶（品牌標誌性作品）的興趣顯著增加，包括中世紀與當代大師的創作。儘管地域品味各異，但全球藏家都追求兼具藝術美感與動人故事的獨特珠寶——這正是珠寶永恆魅力的體現。
AZ: 從長遠來看，您如何看待新一代藏家–例如千禧世代或Z世代–對珠寶拍賣的參與？他們在收藏時的考量有哪些趨勢和變化？對於剛入門的藏家，您有什麼建議？
MG: 千禧與Z世代對珠寶的收藏態度非常個人化，也更加深思熟慮。他們不太追求傳統地位象徵，更重視展現個人風格、永續理念與文化相關性。許多人偏好具有故事性的復古或簽名珠寶——例如1950年代的Bulgari「Serpenti」腕錶（拍品編號344），或Chaumet的鑽石耳環（拍品編號332）——因為他們更看重真實性與情感連結，而不僅是尺寸或品牌。他們是「數位原生代」，自小生活在數位科技環境，能自信地查詢資訊、辨別真偽並參與線上拍賣。對於剛入門的收藏者，我的建議很簡單：選擇能讓你產生共鳴的作品。無論是設計、來源還是工藝，只要能喚起你的好奇心與情感連結，就是值得關注的作品。始終把品質放在第一位。一件選得好的珠寶，不只是配飾，更是展現你品味、價值觀與人生故事的延伸。
Interview by Rinka Fan
Edited by Michelle Yu
