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London Craft Week 2023–Weaving Taiwan
2023倫敦工藝週之台灣館:編織多元文化

This year, the National Taiwan Craft Research and Development Institute continues to present a captivating showcase at the Taiwan Pavilion during London Craft Week, from 10-14 of May.

This revisit to London Craft Week with the theme “Weaving Taiwan” not only brings Taiwanese craftsmanship to the international stage, showcasing the exquisite weaving techniques and diverse cultural heritage, but also emphasizes the importance of mutual benefit and coexistence between people and nature during the week-long exhibition.

Continuing from the 2022 theme, “Colour Theatre – Taiwan Fibre Arts,” this year’s exhibition extends the natural element of “dyeing” to “weaving” and “knitting”. The transformation of plant fibers from linear to two-dimensional or three-dimensional forms allows for the creation of diverse patterns and shapes.

The exhibition comprises four main sections: “About the Materials,” “About the Craft,” “About the Decoration,” and “About the Appliances.” Each section showcases weaving materials and tools commonly used by different ethnic groups, including bamboo, rattan, shell ginger, banana fibers, ramie, and coconut leaves.

This year, 36 exceptional works are on display. Artisans He Zhenxiang, Gao Meizhen, and Xie Shuyue have traveled to London to demonstrate their expertise. The exhibition invites visitors to experience the artisans’ live performances, showcasing the richness and diversity of Taiwan’s weaving culture.

The exhibited works not only showcase the beauty and intelligence of each ethnic group but also emphasize practicality in daily life and sustainable design in harmony with nature. “Nature, Circular, and Accommodating” are at the core of Taiwan’s green crafts and encapsulate the values highlighted at the Taiwan Pavilion during London Craft Week this year.

These fashionable, practical, and sustainable designs embody the core values of Taiwan’s green crafts and the essence of the Taiwan Pavilion at the London Craft Week 2023. During the exhibition time, from 10th to 14th of May, artisans will be on-site to introduce and demonstrate their crafts, while also offering hands-on experiences with shell ginger weaving.

About the Artisans:

何珍襄工藝家/Awaiy Butah——The principal part of a loom is a warp case carved out of an entire chunk of wood. Other constituting components include, a fix rod, warp thread dividers, a heddle rod, a pick-up rod, a sword-shaped beater, a shuttle, roll-up clips, and a backstrap. The horizontal backstrap loom today is also used for cultural connection, popular in the facilitation of cultural experience and performance.

偕淑月工藝家(Shu Yueh Chieh)——Banana fabric is made from banana fiber spun from strands extracted from the outer linings of banana peels and stems and then edged on a floor loom into clothes or patched into a grain storage bag. The Kavalan Tribe in Xinshe Village, Fengbin Township, Hualian County, is the only place in Taiwan where this unique craft is still preserved.

高梅禎(Ili)——For an Amis woman, shell ginger used to play a vital role in wedding ceremonies. “On the wedding day of an (Amis) woman, she will depart from her family home with a large basket and a mat braided with shell ginger, the size of a large suitcase to carry all clothing and items to her new home.”

 

國立臺灣工藝研究發展中心於2023年倫敦工藝週(5月10日至14日)展出「Weaving Taiwan—編織多元文化」,以臺灣多元族群文化為主題,匯集閩南、客家、原住民、新住民等多元族群的編織巧手呈現出編織技藝,展現了臺灣對於多元族群的包容與共榮。

今年參展作品達36件之多,其中何珍襄老師、高梅禎老師、偕淑月老師也來到倫敦展場現場,進行示範表演,現場也將邀請工藝家現場示範,透過她們的現場展演,讓我們看到了臺灣編織工藝文化的豐富與多元。

延續工藝中心2022年在倫敦工藝週的主題「色彩劇場—臺灣纖維工藝」,今年將大自然元素中的「染」延伸至「編」與「織」,使植物纖維由線性轉化成平面或立體,創造千變萬化的圖紋與造型。此次參展規劃「材之選」、「技之道」、「飾之美」及「器之用」四大主題展區,分別陳列各個族群日常生活中常見的編織原料、器具,例如竹、藤、月桃、香蕉絲、苧麻、椰子葉等,以及背帶的弓織機香蕉絲布、苧麻布的地織機與腰織機。再者呈現其製作出來的作品,不僅表現出各個族群的美感與智慧,更兼顧生活實用性與大自然永續性設計,「自然、循環與寬容」正是臺灣綠工藝的核心,亦是 2023年的「倫敦工藝週·臺灣館」意欲體現與突顯的價值。

這次工藝中心以「編織臺灣」為題再次到訪倫敦工藝週,不僅僅是讓臺灣工藝登上國際舞臺,展現臺灣編織技藝的精湛和族群多元的文化,更重要的是如何在這為期一週的展期間,讓國際看見人與自然的互惠與共生,時尚且兼具實用和永續性的設計,這正是臺灣綠工藝的核心,亦是2023年的「倫敦工藝週·臺灣館」意欲體現與突顯的價值。

在5/10-5/14展覽期間,三位工藝家將於現場介紹及製作示範,同時還有月桃葉編織的手作體驗活動,使展覽充滿生動性與活潑感,也讓參展者能更加沉浸在臺灣工藝美之中。

特邀工藝家

何珍襄(Awaiy Butah)——展示了複雜的背帶織機編織藝術,體現了台灣原住民山林生活的傳統編織實踐和智慧。織機的主要部分是一個從整塊木頭雕刻出來的經軸箱。其它組成部件包括固定桿、經線分隔器、綜桿、提桿、劍型梭、織梭、捲線夾和背帶。今天的橫式背帶織機也用於文化連接,在促進文化體驗和表演方面很受歡迎。

偕淑月(Shu Yueh Chieh)——噶瑪蘭族人,也是傳統編織研究者,展示了獨特的香蕉纖維織布工藝,這是噶瑪蘭文化的重要部分,也是台灣文化遺產的珍貴資產。香蕉布是由從香蕉皮和莖的外層提取的香蕉纖維絲線紡成的,然後在地織機上編織成衣物或補成糧食儲存袋。花蓮縣豐濱鄉新社村的噶瑪蘭族是臺灣唯一保留這種獨特工藝的地方。

高梅禎(Ili)——對阿美族婦女來說,月桃在婚禮儀式中曾扮演著重要的角色。阿美族婦女在婚禮當天將帶著一個大籃子和一塊以月桃編織的墊子離開她的家庭住所,這個墊子的大小像一個大行李箱,用來裝載所有的衣物和物品到她的新家。

 

 

Edited by 編輯 x Michelle Yu 余小悦

                   

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