Victoria & Albert Museum
16 September 2023 – 25 February 2024
The Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) in London presents the groundbreaking “Gabrielle Chanel:Fashion Manifesto” exhibition, running from 16 September 2023 to 25 February 2024. This exceptional showcase, marking its UK debut, is dedicated to the legendary French couturière, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, tracing her evolution from her first millinery boutique in Paris in 1910 to her influential 1971 collection.
Gabrielle Chanel, 31 rue Cambon, Paris, 1937 Photo: Roger Schall/Condé Nast/Shutterstock
Drawing from diverse sources, including the National Archives, and exhibiting 191 meticulously dressed mannequins, this exhibition unveils over 200 seminal Chanel looks. Visitors will embark on a journey through Chanel’s iconic suits, perfumes, jewellery, and more. Integral to this experience is Chanel’s transformative impact on modern fashion, evident throughout the display. Artefacts from the Palais Galliera, the V&A’s own collection, and Patrimoine de CHANEL in Paris provide a rich tapestry of her legacy, featuring:
– An early Chanel garment from 1916, a window into her design inception.
– Original ensembles crafted for the Ballets Russes’ 1924 rendition of Le Train Bleu.
– Glamorous attire once graced by Hollywood icons like Lauren Bacall and Marlene Dietrich.
– A glimpse into Chanel’s final 1971 collection, epitomizing her eternal resonance in the fashion sphere.
– A tribute to Chanel’s British inspirations, including her adoration for tweed and collaborations with British textile magnates.
Organized into ten thematic sections, the exhibition immerses visitors in various facets of Chanel’s legacy:
1. Towards A New Elegance: Understand Chanel’s beginnings and her revolutionary take on everyday attire.
2. The Emergence of a Style: Experience the 20s and 30s, periods dominated by Chanel’s avant-garde yet elegantly simple designs.
3. The Invisible Accessory: Uncover the lore of Chanel’s iconic N°5 perfume.
4. Luxury and Line: Delve into the intricate balance of Chanel’s evening wear.
5. Closing the House: Explore Chanel’s WWII-era challenges and her 1954 fashion resurgence.
6. The Suit: Witness the metamorphosis of the Chanel suit, a beacon of contemporary femininity.
7. Chanel Codes: Discover her accessory innovations, spotlighting the legendary 2.55 handbag.
8. Into the Evening: Engage with Chanel’s evening couture, a blend of elegance and timeless allure.
9. Costume Jewellery: Appreciate Chanel’s groundbreaking perspective on costume jewellery.
10. A Timeless Allure: Conclude with a tribute to Chanel’s perpetual influence on evening attire.
The exhibition is further elevated by a carefully curated soundtrack, encapsulating Chanel’s elegance and serenity. Furthermore, the advice Chanel once gave to editor Bettina Ballard encapsulates her timeless design philosophy: ‘Always dress to make yourself feel young – this means being free and easy and unpretentious in your clothes. You have to breathe and move and sit without being conscious of what you’ve got on.’
Concluding her presentation, the curator highlighted the rich textual descriptions accompanying each display. While the visual splendor stands on its own, she urged visitors to delve into the narratives and fresh insights embedded in the captions and texts.
The V&A’s “Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto” is more than an exhibition; it’s a voyage through 20th-century fashion, encapsulating the genius of a trailblazing icon. This odyssey, originating from the Palais Galliera in Paris, is a testament to a woman who revolutionized elegance and is a must-visit for anyone bewitched by the allure of Coco Chanel.
Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto at the V&A (c) Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Gabrielle Chanel：時尚宣言
2023年9月16日至2024年2月25日
倫敦維多利亞與阿爾伯特博物館
倫敦維多利亞與阿爾伯特博物館 (V&A) 隆重推出的”Gabrielle Chanel：Fashion Manifesto”展覽將於2023年9月16日至2024年2月25日舉行。這次在英國前所未有的展覽向傳奇的法國女裝設計師Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel致敬，追溯她從1910年在巴黎開設的首家女帽精品店到1971年的最後一個系列的進化。
來自Palais Galliera、V&A收藏和Patrimoine de CHANEL的各式各樣的古董和珍品將在展覽中亮相。此次展覽通過191個特製的模特展示了超過200件Chanel的代表作品。除了服裝，還有Chanel的香水、皮包、首飾等各種飾品，展現了她對現代時尚的深遠影響。其中包括：
-1916年的早期創作，反映了她對設計的獨特見解。
-1924年為Ballets Russes演出Le Train Bleu所製作的服裝。
-為Lauren Bacall 和 Marlene Dietrich等荷里活巨星所定製的服裝。
-1971年Chanel的最後一個系列，證明了她在時尚界的不朽地位。
-Chanel對英國靈感的致敬，包括她對粗花呢的喜愛以及與英國知名紡織公司的合作。
展覽分為十個主題部分，讓參觀者沉浸在Chanel時尚影響的各個方面：
1.走向新優雅： 追溯Chanel的起源，特別是她如何從最初的女帽設計轉向到用她的簡約和流線型設計革新日常穿著。
2.風格的誕生： 穿越熱鬧的20和30年代，體驗Chanel簡單卻前衛、優雅卻顛覆傳統的設計風格。
3.無形的配飾： 深入探索Chanel著名的N°5香水背後的故事，這仍然是世界上最暢銷的香水之一。
4.奢華與線條： 了解Chanel的晚禮服哲學，反映出創新設計和經典優雅之間的完美平衡。
5.戰時年代： 探索Chanel在二戰期間的挑戰以及她在1954年時尚界的光榮回歸。
6.Chanel套裝： 見證Chanel套裝的變革之旅，這是現代女性的象徵。
7.Chanel代碼： 了解Chanel的配飾設計，包括傳奇的2.55手提包。
8.走進夜晚： 深入研究Chanel對晚禮服的詮釋，她的設計充滿了優雅和永恒的魅力。
9.首飾的藝術： 探索Chanel對珠寶首飾的創新理念，打破常規。
10.永恆之美： 壯觀的展示紀念了Chanel對晚禮服風格的持久影響。
展覽還精心策劃了音樂，使參觀者更好地沉浸在Chanel的優雅和寧靜之中。此外，Chanel曾給編輯Bettina Ballard的建議，充分展現了她永恆的設計哲學：“永遠要穿讓你感覺年輕的衣服。這意味著要讓你的衣著自由、隨性而不矯揉造作。你需要能夠自如地呼吸、行動和坐下，而不被你所穿的衣物束縛。”
策展人在她的媒體演講結束時強調了每一個展品旁的詳細文字描述。她鼓勵參觀者除了欣賞視覺之美外，還可以深入閱讀這些描述，了解每件展品的背後故事，從文字中發掘更多精彩的見解。
V&A的”Gabrielle Chanel：Fashion Manifesto”不僅僅是一場展覽，它是一次通過整個20世紀的時尚旅程見證一位傳奇設計師的非凡之旅。這次展覽以加列拉宮巴黎博物館舉辦的展覽為基礎，並根據V&A博物館館藏的重新構想，對那位重新定義了優雅的女性的致敬，是所有被香奈兒小姐的魅力所吸引的人必須參觀的展覽。
Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto at the V&A (c) Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Edited 編輯 x Michelle Yu 余小悦
